Juneau, Alaska Part 1: How Did I Get Here?

Douglas Island from Mendenhall Wetlands

Douglas Island from Mendenhall Wetlands

I never imagined I would find myself in Alaska.  It always seemed so far away and so far out of the realm of my reality that I never considered it a possibility.  But there I was, wandering around Juneau in an exhausted, stunned frame of my mind.

This was a very unexpected adventure.  My daughter decided last January she was going to move somewhere west before the end of the year.  I was prepared for her to leave the nest and begin bushwhacking her solo course of direction.  In April she announced her departure date and location: July 26 to Corvallis, Oregon.  Meanwhile, round about May, my husband was invited to work in Juneau for five months.  Heck yeah…go for it!  Coincidentally, his departure ended up being the day before our daughter’s departure.

September Dusk, Haines, AK

September Dusk, Haines, AK

I mulled over my options.  Let my only two family members leave me for awesome adventures, especially on virtually the same day?  Stay home alone for nearly half the year?  Heck no…where’s my duffle bag…I’m heading west!  Packing only what is most important to me (art tools, binoculars, birding scope and some clothes & camping gear) I hopped into my daughter’s little red Jetta and enjoyed the ride west with her and our two dogs.  This was my fifth trip across the country.  I love a road trip.  After spending three weeks with her and the dogs, I left Oregon to join my husband in Juneau.

Map showing Juenau’s position within Southeast Alaska’s Alexander Archipelago (zoomed in a bit). Yellow color represents the entirety of Juneua’s geographic area. A=Juneau Borough, B=Glaceier Bay National Park and Preserve, C=Chichagof Island, D=Bar…

Map showing Juenau’s position within Southeast Alaska’s Alexander Archipelago (zoomed in a bit). Yellow color represents the entirety of Juneua’s geographic area. A=Juneau Borough, B=Glaceier Bay National Park and Preserve, C=Chichagof Island, D=Baranof Island, E=Admiralty Island

Actually, the decision was more difficult.  Juneau is an isolated city with no roads leading in or out.  Also, it is a temperate rainforest so it rains.  A lot.  About 90” annually.  That is 7.5 feet!!  I was not sure I would be comfortable with either of these things.  Fortunately, I am aware of the immense value for “self” when exploring outside one’s comfort zone.  I erred on the side of adventure and learning in favor of building on “self”. Turns out, the rain was not so much a challenge but the isolation of Juneau definitely got to me.

Juneau has a population of about 35,000 people and holds the title of second largest city in the U.S. by area.  Ironically, that there is only one major road running through it makes it appear very small.  The downtown is compact with tiny streets that very quickly move from sea level to steep hills.  Gastineau Channel separates Juneau Borough from Douglas Island where about 1/3 of the population lives.  The two places are connected by one bridge.  This tidal channel is directly connected to the Pacific Ocean.  This is how the cruise ships, fishing and research vessels and many other boats can access everywhere else.

A=Downtown Juneau, B=Northern end of “the road”, C=Douglas Island, D=Southern end of “the road”, E=Mendenhall State Game Refuge (aka: Mendenhall Wetlands), F=Mendenhall Lake

A=Downtown Juneau, B=Northern end of “the road”, C=Douglas Island, D=Southern end of “the road”, E=Mendenhall State Game Refuge (aka: Mendenhall Wetlands), F=Mendenhall Lake

On the north end of the channel is the Mendenhall State Game Refuge, fed by salt water from the channel and fresh water from Mendenhall Glacier and many tributary rivers, streams, and brooks. The refuge has been designated an Important Bird Area (IBA), an international network established by BirdLife in Europe and later adopted by National Audubon Society here in the U.S. This designation identifies areas of critical habitat for bird populations.  A truly magical and extensive habitat set right in the Pacific Flyway, Mendenhall Wetlands is surrounded by deep ocean waters, steep dark mountains covered in Sitka Spruce, Mountain Hemlock and Red Alder, and the hustle and bustle of a capital city and an international airport.

Approximately 230 bird species have been recorded here!  This includes water birds, shorebirds, grassland and wet-meadow songbirds and raptors.  Of the 42 species I encountered on these wetlands, I saw eight new-to-me species!  There were possibly two more, Red Knot and Baird’s Sandpiper, but I was alone and could not confirm my field ID.

With its many freshwater rivers and streams, the Mendenhall Wetlands also supports Pacific salmon and other fish, connecting this habitat to not only a diverse and rich variety of wild fauna but also people.  Fishing is a major industry in Alaska.  It is also a major food source for native peoples who rely on subsistence living.

Where on arrival I was not sure if I would enjoy being in Juneau for an undefined period of time, I left thinking up reasons to return to Alaska for further exploration and study.  There is so much to see, learn and experience about the state of Alaska.  My three months only scratched the surface.  Still, it gave me lots of fodder to work with in my studio at home. I will continue to write and make art about my short Alaska experience while crafting ways to go back.

Come back next month for Part 2: The Habitats.

 

Sandy McDermottComment